We were certainly enchanted by the Enchanted Isles, spending 7 days on a boat and finishing up with 2 days in the "big city" of Puerto Ayoro on Santa Cruz Island.
While on the Yate Angelito, we visited, at least briefly, the islands of Mosquera, Isabela, Fernandina, Floreana, and Santa Cruz. The weather was fine and hot, the scenery was brilliant, and the wildlife was truly amazing. Also, the crew took very good care of us. Although there was a pretty good swell at times, nobody was seasick but we did have trouble getting a good night's sleep with the boat rocking.
Although the pressures of the modern world are certainly nipping around the edges of the archipelago, the vast majority of the area appears to be relatively free of impact. The animals are still going about their business and evolving away, with their famous disregard for human presence. We were pleased to see plenty of birds and animals wherever we went, and happily watched the sea lions, sea turtles, and penguins as there always seemed to be a few near the boat.
The shore excursions were fun and we always managed to see some interesting things: a baby sea turtle running to the sea, only to be scooped up and taken away by a frigate bird; beaches crawling with sea lions; rocks crawling with marine iguanas; lava herons hunting for crabs at our feet; or the pleasant surprise of coming across a giant tortise along the trail.
We especially liked the snorkeling. Not much coral, but plenty of life, especially the many fish. Where else can you snorkel with sea lions, sea turtles, and penguins - at the same time? We saw many many sea turtles, as it was their nesting season. Often you could see several at a time, once I counted 10. We also encountered curious sea lions that came to investigate and made it look oh so easy underwater. Also a few sharks around but luckily for us, nothing to worry about.
We also had the good fortune to visit the tortise breeding centers on Isabela and Santa Cruz Islands, and saw everything from tiny 2 month old babies to massive old specimens, and of course "Lonesome George" the only remaining member of his species. (He's not really that lonesome, he lives with two females) It was a special treat to be able to old some of these amazing creatures.
And when our boat trip was finished we were pleasantly surprised to learn that the Galapagos wildlife is abundant along the waterfront of Puerto Ayoro, as we found when we checked into our hotel to find a few sea lions relaxing under the tables in the bar area, and marine iguanas patrolling the deck by the pool. We also saw herons and pelicans checking out the hot tub and pool, and a sea lion that thought the pool was just the spot for a swim. Just down the street we visited the local fish market where fisherman bring their catch to be prepared and sold while the pelicans, herons, gulls, and sea lions bustle about and fight for the scraps. Much more entertaining then television!
Next stop, Peru.
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Photos of La Selva Lodge, Ecuador
Piranha for dinner! It was quite good, actually.
\Jungle frog. Our guide had not seen this one before.
Transparent winged butterfly.
Flower of the wild cacao tree.
Very pretty and the fruit was good too.
Very pretty and the fruit was good too.
With the incredible biodiversity in Ecuador there are
only two types of salamanders. We were lucky to see this one.
Poison dart frog. Locals rub their darts on the frog's back.
Poison is strong enough to kill monkeys in a few minutes.
Poison is strong enough to kill monkeys in a few minutes.
Caiman lizard relaxing.
Tarantula. We saw many on our night walk.
Parrots eating clay at a "clay lick" along the rivebank.
Zane tries his hand with the blow darts.
Our local guide Boliver looks on.
Dart quiver. Pirana teeth are used to score the darts
so they will break off and stay in the animal.
so they will break off and stay in the animal.
View from 45 meter high canopy tower.
Zane practicing his dugout paddling technique.
An opening in the jungle. Under the canopy tends to
be very dark and difficult to photograph.
be very dark and difficult to photograph.
Enjoying a ride on the lake.
Lake view from La Selva Lodge.
Our river transport on the Rio Napo
La Selva Lodge, Ecuador
We escaped the high altitude for a few days to explore the jungle of the Amazon Basin. We took a short flight from Quito to the town of Coca, then boarded a river canoe, about 10 meters long with a generous outboard motor, and went about 2 hours down the Rio Napo river, which is a tributary of the Amazon. The Rio Napo itself was quite a large river, about 1 to 2 km across. If you continue another 20 hours downstream you hit the Amazon, or so I am told.
After disembarking from the canoe, we walked about 15 minutes through the jungle on a boardwalk, then boarded a smaller canoe and were paddled across a lake to La Selva Jungle Lodge. Here we spent four days walking in the jungle, paddling on the lake, swimming with the piranhas, and miraculously, not getting rained on, by rain anyway. The first night we were sitting in the bar, when the sound of pouring water got our attention. Since it was not raining out, this was very curious. Upon closer investigation we found a very large splattering of what looked like white bird poop. We looked up into the thatched ceiling and saw not a bird, but a boa constrictor! One unlucky guest got splattered when on the way down the white stuff (literally) hit the fan.
The jungle was very interesting and we saw many many different plants and animals - weird insects, tarantulas, frogs, lizards, a young anaconda, dozens of monkeys, and many birds. Most of the birds were seen from the top of the 45 meter observation tower, which gave a great view over the forest canopy.
The lodge also has a butterfly farm, where about 30 types of butterfies are raised, the pupae are shipped all over the world to research facilites, zoos, etc. We enjoyed a nice visit there checking out all the interesting caterpillars and beautiful butterflies.
One day we went back out to the river and visited a Parrot "clay lick" where the birds come to eat the clay, which supposedly helps their digestive systems. Perhaps they just like to eat dirt. Whatever the reason the dozens of parrots made quite a racket! We then proceeded across the river to visit a local family, who shared some of their local beer and cane alcohol with us, as well as letting us try our hand with the children's training blow-gun.
Our final day we did some fishing. Tana caught two piranhas, one of which we kept and ate. It was actually rather tasty.
Next stop, Galapagos Islands.
After disembarking from the canoe, we walked about 15 minutes through the jungle on a boardwalk, then boarded a smaller canoe and were paddled across a lake to La Selva Jungle Lodge. Here we spent four days walking in the jungle, paddling on the lake, swimming with the piranhas, and miraculously, not getting rained on, by rain anyway. The first night we were sitting in the bar, when the sound of pouring water got our attention. Since it was not raining out, this was very curious. Upon closer investigation we found a very large splattering of what looked like white bird poop. We looked up into the thatched ceiling and saw not a bird, but a boa constrictor! One unlucky guest got splattered when on the way down the white stuff (literally) hit the fan.
The jungle was very interesting and we saw many many different plants and animals - weird insects, tarantulas, frogs, lizards, a young anaconda, dozens of monkeys, and many birds. Most of the birds were seen from the top of the 45 meter observation tower, which gave a great view over the forest canopy.
The lodge also has a butterfly farm, where about 30 types of butterfies are raised, the pupae are shipped all over the world to research facilites, zoos, etc. We enjoyed a nice visit there checking out all the interesting caterpillars and beautiful butterflies.
One day we went back out to the river and visited a Parrot "clay lick" where the birds come to eat the clay, which supposedly helps their digestive systems. Perhaps they just like to eat dirt. Whatever the reason the dozens of parrots made quite a racket! We then proceeded across the river to visit a local family, who shared some of their local beer and cane alcohol with us, as well as letting us try our hand with the children's training blow-gun.
Our final day we did some fishing. Tana caught two piranhas, one of which we kept and ate. It was actually rather tasty.
Next stop, Galapagos Islands.
Photos of Cajas National Park Ecuador
Some areas were carpeted with tiny succulent-like plants
Datura flower
Many kinds of lichens
The plant in foreground is related to pineapples and bromileads
Paper tree forest. Very magical in there.
Fire Shooter floweres
Interesting scenery in he paramo.
The park contains over 200 lakes, most small and shallow.
Surprisingly, there were many interesting floweres in the paramo.
Zane climbing down the rock in the foreground.
Hiking the paramo at about 3750 meters
Cajas National Park Ecuador
We spent a day visiting Cajas National Park, near Cuenca. Most of the park is at high elevation and consists of a grasslands known as paramo. The park also contains over 200 lakes, most of them small and shallow.
We drove up to the ridiculous elevation of 4150 meters to stand on the continental divide, only 100 km from the Pacific but 5000 km from the Atlantic. We retreated to the slightly more sensible elevation of 3750 meters to begin our hike.
The scenery was very unique, and luckily for us there was no rain, as it rains about 80 percent of the days up there. The diversity of plants in the paramo was also impressive, with mosses, lichens, and many types of small and pretty flowers.
The part we enjoyed most was the Quenua, or paper tree forest. Apparently these trees grow at high elevations in South America, but only in this park do they group together to form forests. They are delightful little forests, full of moss, that reminded us very much of Grimm's fairy tales.
We drove up to the ridiculous elevation of 4150 meters to stand on the continental divide, only 100 km from the Pacific but 5000 km from the Atlantic. We retreated to the slightly more sensible elevation of 3750 meters to begin our hike.
The scenery was very unique, and luckily for us there was no rain, as it rains about 80 percent of the days up there. The diversity of plants in the paramo was also impressive, with mosses, lichens, and many types of small and pretty flowers.
The part we enjoyed most was the Quenua, or paper tree forest. Apparently these trees grow at high elevations in South America, but only in this park do they group together to form forests. They are delightful little forests, full of moss, that reminded us very much of Grimm's fairy tales.
Photos Of Cuenca Ecuador
Local woman at the flower market. Note "Panama" hat.
Zane and his Panama hat.
Alberto Pulla has been making these since he was six.
Shrunken head, for real. Cuenca museum
New Cathedral, Cuenca.
Downstairs at the Central mercado, Cuenca
Central mercado, Cuenca
Flower market, Cuenca
Cuenca scenery.
Zane and his new friend.
Pig for sale and locals, town of Guamote.
Andes scenery on the way to Cuenca
Cuenca Ecuador
From Banos we made our way south via bus and train (well, actually more like a bus on the train tracks as the rail ine was undergoing repair) to the city of Cuenca. The Andean scenery along the way was quite nice. The "train" stopped for awhile at the small town of Guamote, which was filled with festively dressed locals (some being chased by camera toting train riders).
There is great debate among Ecuadorians and tourists alike as to which is prettier, Cuenca or the Old Town of Quito. Both are recognized as World Heritage Sites due to the collection of historic buildings. Our votes go to Quito, but we did appreciate that in Cuenca the Old Town is still the heart of the city with plenty locals going about their daily business. We spent plenty of time here walking around and admiring the architecture and colorful markets.
Cuenca is also the center for the production of "Panama" hats. They are known as such because they were first exported to Europe from Panama and made popular by people from Panama wearing them. They are still essentailly hand woven and the finest ones can fetch upwards of 1000 USD. We visited the shop of Alberto Pullo, who had been making them since he was six years old, and now appears to be about 80.
There is great debate among Ecuadorians and tourists alike as to which is prettier, Cuenca or the Old Town of Quito. Both are recognized as World Heritage Sites due to the collection of historic buildings. Our votes go to Quito, but we did appreciate that in Cuenca the Old Town is still the heart of the city with plenty locals going about their daily business. We spent plenty of time here walking around and admiring the architecture and colorful markets.
Cuenca is also the center for the production of "Panama" hats. They are known as such because they were first exported to Europe from Panama and made popular by people from Panama wearing them. They are still essentailly hand woven and the finest ones can fetch upwards of 1000 USD. We visited the shop of Alberto Pullo, who had been making them since he was six years old, and now appears to be about 80.
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