Sunday, October 18, 2009

Nhoma Camp


Hello from Maun Botswana. Having trouble uploading photos, will try again tomorrow, if not then look in about 5 days.
We spent a couple of days at Nhoma Camp, located in eastern Namibia (between Grootfontein and Tsumkwe), a rather remote area known as Bushmanland. We were here to spend some time with the bushmen (and bushwomen), to see some of their traditional ways of living, which they still practice. If you have ever see the movie "The Gods Must Be Crazy" then you know who the bushmen are.

Nhoma Camp is located very near a bushmen village and works in cooperation with the villagers to offer intertactive cultural activites for the visitors. With a guide we visted the village and watched the residents more or less going about some of their daily activities. Although our presence was obvious, the activites were more or less what the villagers would be doing anyway. In the village we saw some traditional games and dancing, as well as craft and arrow-making. At times when we were not visiting the village we could hear the singing and dancing happening as well.

The highlight is going out into the bush with hunters. Using very traditional tools and methods the hunters go looking for whatever they can kill or find. Along the way they would stop to show us particular plants and what they are used for,. They also demonstrated how to make a bird snare from materials at hand - made some cord from a flax-like plant and rigged a noose using tension from a small tree.

The major find the first day was a honey tree. Using a long stick with a hook on the end (designed to catch springhares down in their holes) the hunters would probe likely trees. If bees were present the hook would pick up the smell of the bees wax. Once a tree was found they cut it down and collected the honey and wax. Actually they ate more than they took back!

The second day we went looking for porcupine, which apparently are good eating, and the quills are used in making jewelery. While driving to the area (yes, walking would be more traditional but ...) we came upon a small antelope which they shot with a poison arrow. Since the poison takes time to work we continued on to look for the porcupines. We found some fresh tracks, but recent rain had made the ground hard and tracking was difficult. We checked some holes in the area but alas no porcupines to be found. We returned to the antelope area to track the animal. The bushmen found where the animal had laid down and pawed the ground, which indicated to them it was indeed injured. We followed the tracks, but the wind was behind us and the animal was simply running from our scent, so we decided to return later in the day. Later we returned and the bushmen followed the tracks, however other animals had come through the area and there were several overlapping tracks which were confusing to follow, so we did not catch up with the animal before it got dark.

It was humbling for us to be out in such a harsh environment with people who knew it so well, while being spoiled rotten by our hosts Arno and Estelle.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Etosha Photos

Leopard at night, had a Springbok carcass up in the tree.

It's a long way down for a drink, which makes the Giraffes nervous.

Ol' floppy-ear.

A fine-looking Elephant.
Quite a crowd at the waterhole.

Another waterhole gathering.

Follow the leader.

Lioness heading to hide in the reeds, awaiting the arrival of lunch.

Lioness springing out for the kill. (Photo by Nikki)

Being the queen of the jungle can be tiring.

These ladies did not seem concerned as we drove by.
This fellow enjoyed giving the water a good thrashing.

Lunchtime

The elephants, big and small, preferred the clean water straight from the outflow


Young elephants play-fighting.
After bathing many of the elephants took a dust bath.

Bath time.
Zebras getting a morning drink.

This waterhole had a great variety of visitors.
Tallest and shortest, Giraffe and Springbok.

Butt-head-butt.

Zebra on the right thinks something is funny. 

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Etosha NP Namibia

Greetings all from Wimpy Burger in Tsumeb Namibia, where Lynyrd Skynyrd is playing on the radio. Strange world. Will post photos when we can, may be a couple of weeks.

Anyway, just emerged from 6 days at Etosha NP in northern Namibia. Saw so much wildlife we can hardly believe it. May never be able to go to a zoo again.

During the dry season here you simply go to a waterhole and the animals will come. Saw lions and Rhino most every day, and leopards on 2 days. One day we saw 52 elephants playing in the waterhole.

Last night we went for a night game drive (private vehicles only allowed during day) and saw mother & 2 cub leopards with a Springbok carcass up a tree about 10 feet from our truck.

Highlight of the trip was the day we were parked at a waterhole, no animals there. Saw a female lion approaching sw we stayed. She came to the waterhole and hopped into some reeds in the center. Wind was in her favor. Animals (Zebra, Springbok, Wildebeest) came to hole but were nervous. Suddenly she sprang out from the reeds. Animals scattered but she managed to bring down a wildebeest, held it by the throat until dead. Dragged it into the bushes and ate. Emerged with bright red face and walked off. Zane got nice little video af attack.

Very hot here, been spending most afternoons by the pool.

Nexy stop, Western Namibia - Bushmanland and Khaudum NP to camp with the animals - no fences to hide behind.

Cheers,
Glenn

Monday, October 5, 2009

Update From Etosha NP, Namibia

Etosha NP 2 days seen lions rhino elephants giraffe zebra and lots more. all well and keeping 4 wheels on the ground. gntnz

Friday, October 2, 2009

Slight Change Of Plans

First of all, we are all well and happy. Do not be alarmed by the photo below.

On the way from Sesriem to Swakopmund we had some trouble with the Land Rover. It did not drive well at all when the roof was on the road. After losing traction on the gravel road and swerving from edge to edge for what seemed like a few hours, over we went.

By that time we were not going very fast. The vehicle took all the damage, and we crawled out with very minor scratches and bruises. None of our personal gear, and very little of the rental gear, were damaged or lost. The vehicle, however, was a total wreck.

Luckily for us this happened 3km from the outpost of Solitaire. The people there were fantastic. They made sure we were OK, retrieved the vehicle and gear, gave us a room (wanted to make it free but we insisted on paying), let us use their phone for international calls, and were generally wonderful. If you are ever in Namibia please visit there, it is a lovely place.

We organized a ride to Windhoek, picked up another Land Rover, and are headed out to Etosha National Park tomorrow.

We enjoyed our interlude in Solitaire. It's good to be alive - just don't get caught.




Sesriem and Sossuvlei Photos


Oryx or Gemsbok, extremely well adapted to the harsh environment.

Great sand patterns seemed to be everywhere.

More dune action.

Sossuvlei dunes.
Soussuvlei.
Climbing - it's a lot further than it looks!
A huge and scenic sand dune.
Sesriem, our first night in the Land Rover. 

Sesriem and Sossuvlei

Sesriem Canyon and Sossuvlei are located in Naimib-Naukluft National Park in SW Namibia.

After picking up our Land Rover in Windhoek (A true "welcome to Africa" experience that took 5 hours), we drove the 300K to Sesriem campsite, mostly on good gravel roads - very few sealed roads in Namibia. Here we learned to set up the roof tents, listened to the barking Geckos, and got our first taste of African wildlife when Springbok and Jackals visited our campsite.

Sesriem canyon is all about sand dunes - huge red ones. We set off leisurely the next morning at 8 AM to visit some in the howling wind. We drove about 40K into the park, spied a likely looking dune, and set out. We got up a fair distance before the howling wind and lack of fitness drove us back. We then proceeded about 20K to the end of the paved road for brunch, before returning back to the campsite to lounge by the pool in the heat of the afternoon. Along the way we spotted Secretary Birds, Ostriches, Springbok, and Oryx.

That evening in camp we were visited by a Jackal who tried to make off with one of our water jugs.

The next morning it was up early to get to Sossuvlei (5k 4WD past the end of the paved road) to see the sunrise. We were at the gate at 6AM when it opened, and drove straight there, where we were rewarded with a few Oryx, Springbok, Ostriches, and some really spectacular sand dune scenery. It was truly impressive.

After a leisurely breakfast at the picnic area, which we shared with the sparrows, we headed off to our next destination, up the coast at Swakopmund.